BITE SIZE REVIEW

FILINI AT THE RADISSON SAS HOTEL, BIRMINGHAM

17-12-2006

The new Radisson SAS Hotel in Beetham Tower has already carved out a distinctive niche on the Birmingham skyline, but how does the in-house restaurant Filini measure up? The Stirrer's been tucking in.

Okay, so Birmingham does budget balti better than anywhere, and the posh nosh end of the trade is covered by Simpson's and Jessicas. But there's a feeling that the city doesn't always do as well at the classier end of the middle market.

Bank has a solid reputation, but something of a suit and tie image; Opus has plenty of admirers but can feel tad impersonal, while atHotel Du Vin (Jamie Oliver's favourite local haunt)the service sometime lags behind the quality of the food.

Beyond that, though, it's hard to think of restaurants in the modern European tradition that are classy enough to feel like a special occasion, but which don't break the bank.

Filini's arrival is a timely addition to this under-nourished sector, and after a hugely enjoyable first visit we'll definitely return.

As the name might imply, there's an Italian (specifically Sardinian) flavour to the place - pizza is freshly prepared on a wood-burning stove - that's certainly not reflected in the decor.

The missus reckons it looks like one of those hotel dining roomsin“Lost In Translation” where Bill Murray wooed Scarlett Johanssen, and I know what she means. The moody lighting, sleek furniture, and dark woodwork give the place ageneric, international flavour.

That said, if you want a reminder that you're in Brummieland, just peek through the curtains and you've got the vista of Smallbrook Queensway gridlock down below.

For my money, though, it achieves the kind of classy but relaxed atmosphere Pat MacDonald never quite pulled offat Paris - but at about half the price.The seating arrangement allows couples to whisper sweet nothings confident of being unheard, yet without hindering the considerable Saturday night buzz generated by the larger tables.

As pescatarians (we eat fish but not meat), the menu had plenty to tempt us, but we settled for starters of bruschetta with peppers and vine roasted tomatoes - delightfully sweet and simple - alongside a lemon infused seafood risotto.

Chefs often claim that risotto is the real test of a restaurant, as it needs close, sometimes pernickety attention in the kitchen over a relatively long period. If that's true, then Filini passes with flying colours, as this delcious combo of mussels, squid and prawn topped with two mini tuna steaks was close to perfection.

If I have a quibble, it's that our otherwise attentive waiter Mohammed might have tactfully pointed out that I was possibly overdoing the tuna, as I'd also ordered it as a main course. When it came though, it was a delight, perfectly pitched between medium and rare as requested, andthankfully the missus dutifully let me share her equally tasty sea bass.

Anyway Mohammed redeemed himself with his wine recommendation, Gavi Di Gavi a very drinkable, slightly fruityItalian white withsustained taste that perfectly complemented the fish.

We could barely manage dessert - theirsuperb range ofcomplementary home-made breads had been altogether too tempting as we were waiting for our meals - but we forced ourselves anyway, sharing a sublime tiramisu, the finest we've ever tasted.

It seems our appreciation was not isolated. On the nightwe visited,Filini was very busy - if not quite packed - and attracted a wide range of clientele ranging fromparents taking university kids out for an end of term treat to to first daters, to one or two aspiring footballers wives.

You could just about get two courses here for around £25 a head, but our bill was closer to £40 each, so for most of usit's not going to be an every week experience.

The point is that when you sample food based around the best and freshest ingredients, and where robust flavours are encouraged to shine through, you always feel its value for money, no matter how much you've paid. That was certainly the case here.

For a “push the boat out” treat or special occasion you'll be hard pushed to beatFilini - a significant addition to Birmingham's dining scene.

(Filini is at Holloway Circus, Birmingham. 0121 654 6000)

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