Bite Sized Review …………………Restaurant Opening

PICCOLINO (Brindley Place, Birmingham)

29-05-2008

There was a lavish launch recently for this new Italian on the site of the old Brasserie Blanc in Brindley Place.  Stirrer editor Adrian Goldberg tucks in.

Intimate lighting, a long central leather banquette, lots of glass and mirrors…first impressions are that Piccolino is aiming for an upmarket, sophisticated feel, albeit with a bit of buzz.

Packed to the rafters for launch night, it certainly feels like a good place to hang out in its own right - an after-dark match for its more business-oriented stablemate Bank.

So much for the vibe, what about the food?

The menu is modern Italian, so plenty of posh pizzas, imaginatively presented seafood, and pasta with a twist.

For starters, we opted for a Risotto Giardinara, pepped with Feta Cheese, and bruschetta topped with mushrooms and creamy wilted spinach – the latter definitely taking the honours in taste terms.

For mains, I tucked into King Prawn linguini, with garlic and chilli – decent enough, though perhaps lacking in kick for my Ladypool Road inspired tastes.

The Other Half, though, had a wonderful swordfish steak on a bed of vegetables – tender, tasty, gorgeous.

Top of the bill was Halibut with potato, fennel and lemon wrapped in a paper parcel – we gave it a swerve this time, but it’s the chef’s signature dish, and if the swordfish is any guide, it should be well worth a try.

After sharing a fine Tiramisu for dessert, we discovered that if we’d been paying, our total bill for two (including four glasses of wine) would have come in at around £76.

As we stumbled into the night, we had few serious quibbles. 

The Fries were undercooked, and there was a curiously convoluted delivery system, which saw dishes being collected from the brasserie by a team of “bus boys” before being handed to the waiting staff.

There’s also a lot of competition out there for quality Italian dining – Filini, the Strada chain, Don Salvo, San Carlo etc etc

Piccolino’s main problem will be to distinguish itself in this crowded market, and create an identity sets it apart.

We’d definitely go back, but it would have to be an “occasion”; the food, while decent, isn’t yet remarkable enough to warrant a visit in its own right

Eaten out anywhere in the West Midlands lately?  Leave a comment on The Stirrer Forum.